NO FUN FINALE

People have been asking if we're home yet. Yes, we are. The new flights went off as scheduled. The trip just wasn't any fun. We left the hotel at 7:30 am Rome time and got to the house about 8 am the next day Rome time. In Tucson, it was midnight. I think we have come to the conclusion that we just can't do those long flights anymore. This time it was actually painful to sit that long.

Interesting note on our trip back. We flew from Rome to Frankfurt on Lufthansa (the small local flight wasn't affected by the strike). Then we went to Frankfurt's International Departure Lounge area for our United flight. It was like a ghost town. Eerie.

Only three flights posted on the departure board. All were United flights. Two were leaving at about the same time. One was to Chicago and the other was ours to Houston.

Karin was flying American home (Rome - Philadelphia - Denver) and in Rome they offered her 1,000 euros to vacate her seat! No, she didn't take them up on it. She flew home.

This central area of the Frankfurt International Lounge should have been filled with people as it was only noon.

Plenty of seats and electrical outlets
available.















But on our last day in Rome...before we knew about the canceled flight, we enjoyed some last minute sight-seeing.

                                   Our good-bye to the Pantheon...

Crossing the Tiber...

Approaching Tiber Island, the only island in the Tiber! For some reason, we never knew it was there. Tiny, but lovely!

THINGS LOOK BETTER

NOVEMBER 9TH - 6 PM

Lufthansa did indeed cancel our flight from Frankfurt to Denver. But...after a 1 hour and 3 minute phone call...it looks like we are all set to go. New flights from Frankfurt to Houston and then from Houston to Tucson...on United. We won't be sure all is working correctly until we hit the airport tomorrow morning, but we have hope. And we still have the Rome to Frankfurt flight on Air Dolomiti which is a partner with Lufthansa.

By the way, Monday is a very down day in Rome. Hardly anything is open! Try Googling it!

We walked across the river to the Palazzo Spada and viewed their gallery. Then walked across the island in the river to get back home. Whole trip was about 3.5 hours on our feet. The rest of the day has been dealing with flights.

TRAVEL UPDATE WARNING

MONDAY, NOVEMBER 9TH

We are due to fly out tomorrow morning from Rome to Frankfurt. Then Frankfurt to Denver to Tucson. Sounds fine, but the first two flights are operated by Lufthansa and they are currently having flight attendant strikes. If we were flying today (Monday) the Frankfurt to Denver flight is canceled.

As of now, our flights tomorrow are 'scheduled.' We shall see and I will post any changes if/when they come in as wifi access allows.

Should anyone want flight numbers...that doesn't already have them...they are:

Rome to Frankfurt    #LH   231
Frankfurt to Denver  #LH   446
Denver to Tucson      #UA 6505

SUNDAY IN THE PARK WITH BORGHESE

SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 8TH

A late breakfast at the hotel and then a walk over to the Galleria Borghese. We had tickets for 1 pm admittance. Arrived early and sat in the park and simply watched Sunday afternoon families enjoying the warm sun. Lots and lots of children and dogs. Weather here has been incredible. The afternoon high has been reaching about 74!

Next two hours were spent inside the Galleria. A beautiful building with a great collection of art. We've all been here before but it is another old friend and one that you learn to appreciate the more you visit.

We then headed into the park and down the hill through Piazza del Popolo to our hotel.

Just a lovely day. And lots of assorted pics!

Walking through the park to the Galleria

The Villa Borghese

Waiting for our time

Cardinal Scipione Borghese

Bernini's intense David

A child blowing bubbles. A dove on a ribbon.

Okay..another glorious ceiling

Walking out through the park

Looking down at Piazza del Popolo and Rome

DORIA PAMPHILJ & PALAZZO BARBERINI

SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 7TH




First a footnote:  while in Florence, Karin picked up a tiny porcelain Westie. If you know Karin, you'll understand. It looks like 'Rowdy!'



So onto our day. We headed down the road to the Doria Pamphilj Museum. Stew and Bob had been there and had tried to get Karin there three years ago. Didn't happen then. Tried again the other day but they closed early for some reason. Third time worked like a charm. We spent quite a long time there.

 One of the highlights:
The Ballroom

One of four galleries

Foundation of the family's power and wealth was Pope Innocent X.



Bust by Bellini
Portrait by Velázquez



Then we hiked over to Palazzo Barberini...passing the newly restored Trevi Fountain (and the hordes of people surrounding it!).

From the Palazzo Barberini a single shot of one of the fabulous ceilings. 

 There are staircases on either side of the Palazzo. One is by Bernini and the other by Boromini. Bernini was young and up-and-coming while Boromini was well established and respected. Both were hired to create a staircase. One is square (Bernini) and the other is curved (Boromini). Both are beautiful (but hard to photograph!).

Dinner tonight is at the hotel.

Another footnote:  our room here at Hotel Mozart which is on Via dei Greci. However, we asked for and are in the Vivaldi Building around the corner on Via del Corso, one of Rome's main thoroughfares. Really, really pleased.

A DINNER - ST PAUL'S - PIAZZA NAVONA

Yes, yes, I know. I missed another day. Let's not go there...

THURSDAY night we found a lovely restaurant for dinner. As we were escorted in, I knew we were in trouble when I saw the spectacular layout of fresh fish from which you chose your dinner! Let's just say that the meal was incredible. Cafe Malafemmena -
http://www.ristorantemalafemmena.it/index-en.html

FRIDAY Karin went back for phase two of her coif. Since she would be a while with Marcello (!) Bob and Stew walked up to Piazza del Popolo and into the residential neighborhood beyound. We met up with Karin just after noon. For Bob, it was nap time. (Darn fatigue!). But the evening was eventful.  

Karin wanted to see Saint Paul's Basilica so we headed over just after 4 pm. It was about a 20 minute walk {Stew just corrected me...it was a 40 minute walk!} The line to get in was only half as long as we had seen on previous occasions, so we opted to go in. Karin was enthralled. Bob and Stew had seen it before. By day, one can see everything clearly but in the early evening shadows some things get lost. Very odd that they do not light the famous Bellini baldachin (high altar). Still, the Basilica was lovely.

Out into a Roman evening, we strolled by the Pantheon again and stopped in. We were amazed that by electric light it was even more stunning! Small details that blended into the total picture by day stood out clearly in the evening. And the crowd was again half the size.

Then to find our restaurant. Stew had picked out one from TripAdvisor.com that was in a small, dark alleyway next to the Pantheon. If you know the area, good luck finding something like that! But we did...although Karin wasn't sure she wanted to walk down this dark alley. It was worth it. We found the restaurant, Pantha Rei, and sat upstairs on a small balcony with 5 tables. Great time. We would (and may) definitely go back.

Today, Saturday, the plan is to visit the Doria Pamphilj museum and Palazzo Barbarini. Dinner is reserved at a small restaurant in our hotel!

{NOTE:  Having a terrible time this morning uploading pictures to the blog. Will do as time and network allow!)

Michaelangelo's Pieta

Inside St. Paul's


        Karin gazes at
        Rome from the
        steps of the
        Basilica.

Fountain of the Four Rivers

by Bernini in Piazza Navona






The Nile in Africa, the Ganges in Asia, the Danube in Europe and the Río de la Plata in America

FINALLY...DOMUS ROMANE

Thursday, November 4 -- Domus Romane, Doria Pamphilj, a partial haircut and Sleep

On a previous trip to Rome we had tried to get tickets to Domus Romane. We found the building (a Police Station!) but had to go to a book shop down the street to get tickets. Once we found that we were told there were no tours in English. Glad to say that now that has all changed.

Today Bob's fatigue syndrome caught up and would not be denied. He slept all night, up and had breakfast and was back in bed till almost 1 pm. Our tickets for Domus were for 1:30 so we had to hussle. But first we had to find Karin! Today was Karin's day for a hair cut. Karin showed up minutes later with a new cut, but had to stop the treatment in order to get back. She returns tomorrow at 10:30 for phase two of her new coiffure.

Plus, it was now raining. We had the desk call a taxi and we made it to Palazzo Valentini where Domus Romane was held. What is Domus Romane?

     "Through a virtual reconstruction, light, sound effects and projections, the visitor will see “reborn” walls, rooms, peristyle, thermes, salons, decorations, kitchens, furniture of the patrician “Domus” of imperial age.
      The “Domus”, belonged to powerful families of the time, perhaps senators, have mosaics, decorated walls, polychrome floors, pavements, and other artifacts.
      Complete the course a large scale model of the area in Roman times and the various stages of Palazzo Valentini, through which the visitor can relocate within the urban context through many layers of history."

{Note the glass floor through which one can see the old floors, roads, etc. Since no photography was allowed, this picture is from a web site. The walls are the originals but all the colored details are light projections.}

A quick bite and then off to the Doria Pamphilj. This is the one that we had tried to see on our last trip but Karin's wallet had been stolen. We made it to the ticket office. But it was closed! For today only, it closed at 4 pm instead of the usual 7 pm. Oh well...another day.

Home, a nap and now a light supper. My apologies, but no photos for today. As our friend Margaret Brucato has mentioned many times, it seems more and more one is not allowed to take photos!

FIRENZE TO ROMA

Today was a travel day. Up and a late breakfast at Loggiato dei Serviti. Taxi to the train stations. Another wonderful train ride. This time to Roma. 1.5 hours. Free power, free soft drinks, free snacks. All the while traveling at 250 km/hr...155 mph.

Quickly picked up a taxi and headed to our little hotel...Mozart Hotel. Barely a front door. But we are not in that building...we are around the corner in the Vivaldi Building on via del Corso. Large rooms. Well appointed. Very, very happy.

After a walk down to visit the Parthenon...a must if you come to Rome...we headed back for naps and showers. For dinner, we decided to head out on our own and see what we found. About 2.5 blocks away...up a little alley...we found Edy Restaurant. Great meal. Sat outside as the place was full at 7:45! Booked again for Friday night.

Tomorrow begins our real visit to Rome. We have tickets for Domus Romane (google it if you must) for 1:30 (English version). We shall easily fill the morning.

Enough for now. I want to get to bed early. It is difficult when dining out and then having to do the blog!

An old friend...the Parenthon

Up the alley...the little white canopy...Edy Restaurant

 Edy Restaurant



     We ate outside. Wonderful.
      Do we look happy? YEP!

YESTERDAY, TODAY AND TOMORROW

Okay. I admit it. I missed a day. I could make a lot of valid excuses, but why waste the time and space. Let me go back and fill-in.

YESTERDAY - THE OPERA MUSEUM

One of our favorites. It has gone through a major renovation and we can't say we like it. We found it very confusing...rooms that lead off to other rooms and never circled back to where you started. Plus, they've upped the price. But we did get to visit our 'favorites' and that is always a joy. So I'll insert the photos here for YESTERDAY!

The original doors on the Babtistry...Ghiberti spent 21 years casting 28 bronze panels.

Ghiberti spent the next 21 years casting 28 bronze panels and building his doors - See more at: http://www.reidsitaly.com/destinations/tuscany/florence/sights/baptistry.html#sthash.UfQmksXQ.dpuf

Ghiberti spent the next 21 years casting 28 bronze panels and building his doors. - See more at: http://www.reidsitaly.com/destinations/tuscany/florence/sights/baptistry.html#sthash.UfQmksXQ.dpuf

Ghiberti spent the next 21 years casting 28 bronze panels and building his doors. - See more at: http://www.reidsitaly.com/destinations/tuscany/florence/sights/baptistry.html#sthash.UfQmksXQ.dpuf

The Baptistery/Gates of Paradise

The Baptistery/Gates of Paradise

The Baptistery/Gates of Paradise

The Baptistery/Gates of Paradise

 The new museum. A room built to show the original facade of the Cathedral.


      The silver alter...stunning

These are our old friends. Michelangelo's Pieta and the Penitent Mary Madelene by Donatello

Inside the Baptistry, the gold ceiling.

Now onto to TODAY - THE UFFIZI AND THE BOBLI GARDENS

A return to the Uffizi Museum. Probably the highlight of any Florence visit. We spent the whole morning wandering the many rooms.

 One of several long corridors of statues.





               Bust of Antonious

A view to the Ponte Vecchio


         Ceiling in a room
         that was once  blown
         apart by a terrorist bomb
          in 1993





Then onto the Pitti Palace and the Boboli Gardens. Stew has been to the Palace before so we decided to skip the interior. But we did walk the Gardens. Being November, the Garden is not at its prime, but the views are still lovely. And we all got lost from each other! Regrouped at the Palace. Home for a nap, out for a light dinner and now time for bed before our train to Rome in the morning.

Buona notte!